An underexposed shot too little light falls left of centre and an overexposed shot too much light falls right of centre. Use the Exposure Meter as a guide only, exposure is a matter of personal preference so don't be affraid to wander off of zero. Good Exposure: 0. Back To Top. Canon is a registered trademark of Canon Inc.
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The feature that controls the sensitivity of the image sensor in your camera. At a high ISO means your image sensor is more sensitive when you need a lot of light — this is good for shooting in low light. The feature that controls the size of the lens opening when a picture is taken. If you need a lot of light you want to have a big opening a low aperture.
Measured in F-stops and often referred to as such. The feature that controls how long the shutter is open for and therefore how much light comes into the camera and hits the image sensor. Stop can refer to different settings in any of the three elements that control Exposure. Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO settings are all divided up into "stops", even though the numbering systems are different.
Technically refers to the numbers that represent the size of your lens opening. One camcorder would be on wide angle to include the speaker and whatever overhead LCD screen projector showing Powerpoint slides. This first camcorder would be used as reference content to figure out where exactly to insert slides during a speaker presentation.
Can you imagine how much post editing is required for filming 8 hours of many various speakers for 3 consective days? Hmmm, on second thought, I don't know if I'm qualified, haha!! By the way, I do have a question for you. For your particular Canon XF camcorder, do you always use the top handle?
Do you ever use the XLR audio ports? My G60 doesn't have the top handle, and I found out I cannot buy or add an after-market top handle to the camcorder. I saved several hundred dollars by not getting the XA50 camcorder with a top handle, but I wonder if I should have gotten a top handle model?
Casey, The ISO equivalent in this camcorder is gain. The base is 0. Canon U. A Inc. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is prohibited. FAQ Sign In. Canon Community. Turn on suggestions. Auto-suggest helps you quickly narrow down your search results by suggesting possible matches as you type. Showing results for. Search instead for. Did you mean:. Casey Frequent Contributor. Me too.
All forum topics Previous Topic Next Topic. Tim Respected Contributor. You make the direct connection with exposure time and this is simply not relevant to do when talking ISO.
This reasoning has been tought to us in daylight photography, but is not accurate and falls apart while doing astrophotography. I can 4x lower the integration-time for same result as using lower ISOs with longer integration time.
And no: Noise is not boostet 4times. There is your point: You claim boosting the ISO over a certain point will boost all types of noise the same amount, so there would be no benefit. But this is wrong. Not all types of noise are boostet the same way signal is boosted. Lower ISOs like , and for most cameras will just lead to longer interation time needed, without any benefit in noise.
And DR: It just dont matters. DR is only in place when: a perfect exposure time, b High DR within the picture. Beside all of this: ISO-invariant cameras like the sonya7s have fantastic in-camera denoising tools, that cant be switched of.
You never get a raw-image. In-camera amlification does a better job, than we can do. I can clearly see that the 1 minute image at ISO is worse. WHY can't you? When stacking astro-photos … a Increasing the exposure time reduces the relative Shot Noise in the final image b Fewer, but longer, exposures minimizes the Read Noise.
Astro-Photos require a huge Dynamic Range. The very faint nebulosity is buried deep within the shadows, while simultaneously the very bright stars and emission are clipping white. You cannot simply keep increasing the ISO, while reducing the exposure time, and expect better images. Many thanks for this information as a starting point for Astrophotography. I use the Canon D with a Canon fixed mm f2. However, at or am unable to capture anything beyond the moon and brighter planets.
At secs, I can get away with using For Milky Way shots, with a Rokinon 18mm f2. I look forward to your thoughts. Many thanks. Thanks for your question. First of all; are you shooting in RAW?
If not you might wanna look into that. Many thanks for your reply and confirmation on ISO. Using my laptop, I set up an imaging plan, track, capture RAW images at various ISO and exposures, do stacking and rendering curves, gradients etc. Thanks for the link — once Andromeda gets high enough in the sky July on for us in NZ, will try for that as night falls earlier. Orion comes out well at ISO or more. Just bought a Canon 6D so will look forward to see difference on next imaging.
Best wishes. The detailed way of implementation of the signal chain and the hardware used like the AD converters will determine the behaviour of the camera and how it handles ISO values. It could very well be different hardware that is causing this. Hi there, thanks for this explanation. If I understand you correctly, you are saying that above a certain ISO value which is camera specific , the ISO used will not provide any more detail to the image and may in fact reduce the amount of information due to overexposure.
Or will the noise floor be increased more at higher ISO levels? Hi, Thanks for your question. They are both control different things and the main thing to understand is that ISO does NOT influence the amount of light you capture. So for your situation it is still best to use the recommended ISO setting even though exposure time needs to be short because of tracking.
Those high ISO numbers certainly look very tempting in the cold and dark. Canon only uses a standard analog gain per-pixel amplification for full stop ISO settings up to a certain high ISO level. So, ISO , , , After a certain point, really high ISO settings in Canon cameras are achieved via a base analog amp. For post-5D III generation i. It is pretty rare that Unity ISO is actually selectable, however there is usually a close third-stop setting to unity. What Unity ISO is depends on the camera, the sensor, the full-well capacity, and other factors Roger Clark has lots of information on his site for popular Canon camera models, and within them he usually derives unity gain, if knowing it is important some applications may benefit from unity gain.
That is a simple fallacy, really. That's it. There should not be any additional caveats to that. I am a Canon user, and rarely shoot at ISO for most of my photography, which is birds and wildlife.
Most of my photography is at least ISO , more often between and ETTR offers a simple benefit: It puts more of the signal above the noise floor, which improves your editing latitude. Using ISO , assuming you have enough light, simply maximizes your dynamic range, within which ETTR is still shifting more of the signal above the noise floor. The higher read noise floor means you technically get more benefit from ETTR.
A photographer should check his or her own specific camera against Bill Cleff's charts for objective measurement. As a photographer and a videographer, I'd like to know what will improve my photography. Remembering to prefer , , , , , for stills and video is not hard to do. The fall off is so steep that there's really no point to continuing to shoot above ISO unless its new reportage or you are seeking a blotchy look with a lot of chroma noise.
With Canon sensors, shadows are noisy so there is no point in shooting heavily underexposed more than a stop and hoping to raise the exposure in post shadow recovery works a treat with most recent Sony, Fuji and Nikon bodies , so basically after ISO , we're done. Fortunately there's a lot of affordable fast glass for Canon so it's not difficult to keep up in visible low light.
Going further, with Canon bodies, one is best to ETTR expose to the right to maximise colour depth and minimise shadow noise.
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